Have some ideas, tips, or questions, simply pop them to me below!
Q&A RESOURCE PAGE
From time to time people ask me questions about their gardens. I am very flattered, but I only know what I have learned by trial and error, asked experts, or found out by doing research in books or on the Internet. I’ll tell you what I think, and if you think it sounds logical, give it a try. Thanks for having confidence in my answers, I’ll do my best to find you an answer in a timely fashion.
I've read your blog, and watched many of the videos. Your tips are so helpful, and I would like to thank you for sharing! I enjoy walking with you through the garden to see what you've done and how it has changed over time.
Lynn & Rick,
I have watched videos 1-46 excluding number 44 which I didn't find. Each one was so interesting from a gardening perspective. You work soooo hard and it shows in all your gardens. I especially liked the berm video and wish I had seen it before we spent so much to fill a ditch in front of our home! I live on 13 acres, so leaves would have been easy to collect and pile up there for the last 11 years that we've lived here. The log wall is so unusual, making it beautiful. We mow around 8 acres and less mowing perked up my ears. The idea of all the mulch and garden rather than boring grass makes your acre seem so much larger. The mulch would be harder to do here as our property slopes down into two ponds.
I will look for the mower video! Sounds like a scary moment:( Maybe you need to let that strong man you married do some of those harder jobs!!
I don't have anything to share, just looking for ideas to use in my yard. I was interested in planting strawberries and that's how I ran into your site. I just kept moving from one video to the next, watching you transform your place and tell what you had done in the past.
I have a couple of Silver Maples to plant and I'm not so sure I want to plant them after hearing that you took them out of your yard. We would have them close to the house than would be safe! The idea was to plant fast growing trees the replace shade trees we took out. We had to take out 8 old trees that had been through all the ice storms the could stand. They were what my husband called "Piss Elms." They dropped tiny limbs daily and he spent half an hour each day picking them up. He doesn't miss them at all. The shade on the house is gone now and the Silver Maples would grow fast and shade the house and yard again.
I could comment on each video, they are all so good. Feel free to post my comments in your blog if you'd like. Thought I'd let you know we live in Northwest Missouri. Thanks for all the information!
Marc & Nora
Dear Nora, Thank you so much for your kind and encouraging comment. Rick and I have fun walking around the yard looking at the changes that take place daily, knowing full well we will never be finished because everything just keeps growing. Thank goodness it does! We continue to try things and talk to people about how they do things. Please share your tips and ideas so we can learn from you too. Did you see the latest blog with me working on the lawnmower? I did my best to follow Rick’s instructions, but when he started it up, I hadn’t cranked the blade on tight enough, and it made the most terrible noise…..he had to stop it and use his muscles on it. Live and learn. If you're on FaceBook, feel free to join my garden group. Just look me up at Lynn Voigt. Sincerely, Lynn & Rick
Q: I need help. We have Lombardy poplar tree stumps that we can’t take out. What do we put on them so they will stop sprouting?
A: While we don’t have poplars on our property, I was able to find some suggestions that may prove to help solve your tree root problem. Just realize it will take time and patience to stop them from coming back.
Let us know which technique(s) you used and which worked best. All the sources had pretty much the same solution.
The poplar tree is a very common tree in North America and refers to any tree of the genus Populus. There are three main groups of poplar trees: aspens, balsam poplars and cottonwoods. They are quick growing but short-lived trees.
The tree can be very invasive due to sprouting new trees from its root system. Thus, some people find it necessary to remove poplar trees from their landscape. With proper practices, it is fairly easy to remove them.
First, using a chain saw, cut the stump down as close to the ground as you can, without allowing the chain saw's teeth to strike the ground (this would dull your chain).
Apply a non-selective herbicide like Roundup (active ingredient = glyphosate)to the stump of the poplar tree. A good way to apply this is to use a paint brush and paint the entire exposed surface of the tree stump. This herbicide will kill the roots of the tree.Also apply it to allthe leaves on the sprouts instead of cutting them off. This way the herbicide will be absorbed by them also.
The single most effective method of getting stumps and roots to be digested is to bore some holes in the stump and fill them with a high Nitrogen product which will encourage the bacteria to get to work and digest that stump.
Drill holes a few inches deep into the stump in numerous places, using your widest drill bit; the wider and deeper the holes, the better.
Fill these holes first with water, then with a fertilizer high in nitrogen. For instance, you could use cow manure. If you're using a commercial fertilizer instead, make sure the first of the 3 numbers of the fertilizer's NPK is the highest (for instance, a straight nitrogen fertilizer such as 45-0-0).
Soak the ground all around the stump. Cover the stump with a plastic tarp. The tarp will act as a barrier to help retain moisture in and around the stump. Moisture is a powerful ally to have on your side for tree stump removal.
Apply organic mulch over the plastic tarp, and water it thoroughly. Organic mulch such as tree bark or hay will hold additional moisture, keeping the area even wetter. Wet mulch is also heavy, which will help weigh the tarp down, so that it doesn't blow away. For additional weight, roll some heavy stones onto the tarp.
The final thing you need to do for this tree stump removal project is -- to be patient! You're speeding up the natural process of rotting by employing the steps above, but this tree stump removal technique is still not for those who need the stump to disappear N-O-W.
You'll reduce the wait for completion of your tree stump removal project, however, by periodically removing the mulch and tarp for a moment and once again thoroughly soaking the stump and the ground around it. If you still have that nitrogen source at your disposal, add more of it. Then reapply the plastic tarp and mulch. Soak the mulch again, too, to keep the tarp wet and weighed down.
Q. I bought a Rainbow's End Dwarf Alberta Spruce, it's 33" tall and looks perfect in a pot on my front patio on the east side of the house.
It came in a planter’s pot so I replaced it with a thick ceramic pot 14"x12” giving 5" of new dirt on bottom and about 2" on the side.
I would like to keep upsizing pot size until the tree is 4 feet (should be years) then grounding it.
Is this possible? Could my new baby survive the Wisconsin winters in a pot?
A: Sounds like you did just the right thing when you transplanted it to the new pot, Jacob. You added new soil and didn’t go too big with the size of the pot. It is better to use a pot that is just a little bigger than the old one.
My research answered some of my own questions about keeping plants in their containers for the winter. First, it is advised that the plant should be rated one zone hardier than your region. That being said, there are a few things you can do to insure it will be happy in its new home.
You mentioned that you want to keep it on your east patio, so think of ways you can keep it out of the direct path of the wind for the winter and early spring. Consider pushing it up to the house or into a more sheltered corner. Wind can be very drying and harmful.
You will want to keep its feet warm, so use bails or bags of straw around the pot itself as insulation to protect the roots. Think of these as decoration possibilities for the holidays.
Insulate the top of the soil with wood chips to help keep the moisture in the ground, and probably the most important tip is to water your baby tree, not only right before it freezes outside, but also anytime the soil is thawed and dry, throughout the winter and spring.
Enjoy your lovely little tree in all the seasons. Sounds like it found a loving home.
Q. My blue balloon flowers were huge, but wouldn't open naturally. I had to pull them apart by hand. Do you have any ideas as to why?
A: I have been trying to find an answer to your balloon flower problem and have had no luck. Every source tells how hardy and problem-free balloon flowers are. They only list fungus problems, but never once mentioned blossoming problems. I have not had that problem either.
If you did not pop them open, what happens? Do they just wither and die unopened? What a disappointment! I have to go to a nursery so they can identify a vine problem we are having, so I will ask about your flowers too. Could be a freaky nutrient missing or something like that. I'll let you know what they say.
Reply from Sue: They just wither if I don’t open them.
A #2: After talking to the experts at Hawks Nursery, they came up with a couple of possibilites.
Too much water, too much shade, or a combination of both at the exact time the flowers were blooming.
Did the place you have them planted get shadier from last year due to tree or bushes nearby?
I guess you will have to wait until next year to see if it happens again.
Gardening isn’t an exact science, it’s more like a work of art in progress.
Reply from Sue: Thanks, Lynn. It could be more rain along with shade, but adjacent to the blue ones, there was a white one, and that opened just fine. Guess we will wait and see. I appreciate you checking into it.
Last week Dave, from California asked me about a problem he was having with his tomatoes.
He said his tomatoes were ripening nicely but seemed to be rotting on the bottom, and was wondering if he was watering them too much.
A: I had heard in the past that this was caused by inconsistent watering patterns, and I remember having experienced this problem myself during summers when there were periods of too much rain. So I did some research and sure enough my sources said it can be caused by a lack of calcium in the soil caused by uneven watering or lack of water or possibly root systems that aren’t fully developed.
What I suggested to Dave was that he may want to cut back on the watering a bit for now and also do what Jerry Baker recommends, which is sprinkle egg shells around your tomato plant. The calcium from the egg shells can then get into the soil and feed your plant what it needs. He was going to try that and let me know.
Good luck, Dave. I know you are looking forward to eating your juicy, but firm, home-grown tomatoes.
Q. What is this yellow mold-like stuff growing in my flower bed? Here is a picture I took of that I took with my phone.
A: After doing some research I think I found your culprit. It’s called Witch’s Butter. Isn’t that a descriptive and colorful name! You were right, Rachel, it is in the fungus family. Here are a few suggestions I found on the Internet that you could try.
How To Treat Soil FungusHOW TO TREAT SOIL FUNGUS
Option 1
Purchase a fungicide approved for use on the type of grass and plants you have and apply it to your yard according to the manufacturer's directions.
Option 2
Mix water and baking powder together in a spray bottle and apply it directly to areas with soil fungus problems. Use 2 to 3 tablespoons of baking powder in a 16 to 20 ounce spray bottle. Do not add so much baking powder that the mixture becomes too thick to spray easily.
Option 3
Sprinkle corn meal over fungus-infested areas. The cornmeal will soak up the moisture and help kill certain types of fungi.
Option 4
Add nitrogen to woody mulches to prevent the mulch from taking nitrogen from your plants. Add grass clippings to your wood mulch before composting or use poultry manure or urea to add nitrogen.
Option 5
Saturate compost and mulch with water right after applying them to your soil. Water helps promote the growth of helpful bacteria that attack harmful fungi, reducing the chance of developing a fungus problem.
Q. What nutrients did you use when you planted your tomatoes?
A: I used Jerry Baker’s formula called “Timely Tomato Tonic.”
3 cups of compost, ½ cup Epsom salt, and1 T. baking soda. To that mixture I added a handful of worm castings that we bought from Will Allen’s Growing Power, Urban Farm Store. The sugar goes in the hole and then sprinkle the dry milk around the tomato when it’s planted. Best of luck with yours.
Bind Weed Our daughter, Lace, sent me a picture of a weed that was growing in a friend’s yard and asked if I knew what it was. Even from the tiny camera shot, we could tell it was from the morning glory family because it was twining its way up a flower stem. I have heard it called Bind Weed because it just wraps itself all over your plants and binds them together. Eventually it gets little pinkish morning glory flowers and produces SEEDS.
Our advice is to spray it with a ground-type spray, unless it is already climbing all over your plants. In that case you will need to unwrap it, pull or dig it out, and throw those invasive weeds in a garbage bag.
Don’t just throw it on the ground somewhere or in a compost bin, as it will root itself and start over. It’s a constant battle once you find it, but always worth the work to protect and keep your garden plants in top health.
4 c. spaghetti sauce (with or without meat) ¾ box (12 oz.) of bow tie pasta 1 c. cottage or ricotta cheese 2 c. shredded cheese (mozzarella, cheddar, or co jack) ¼ c. parmesan cheese 1 T. parsley flakes (or fresh chopped if you have it) 1 egg 2 or 3 c. zucchini, cubed
Cook the pasta for about 10 minutes following the package directions. Don’t let it get too soft. Drain and rinse it with hot water. Mix pasta with 3 c. of spaghetti sauce. Mix the cottage and parmesan cheeses together with the egg and parsley. Using a glass 9 X 13” greased pan, spread the zucchini on the bottom. Put half of the pasta and sauce mix on top of the zucchini. Put all the cottage cheese mix on next and spread evenly. Sprinkle half the shredded cheese on that. Put the remaining pasta sauce mix on and then fill in the rest with the last cup of spaghetti sauce.
Sprinkle the rest of the shredded cheese on top to finish.
Cover the pan with foil. Cook at 375 for 45 minutes. Take off foil and cook 20 minutes until it is golden brown and bubbly.
Let it rest for 10 minutes before cutting.
The texture is unique as the bow ties and the zucchini are bumpy not smooth like lasagna noodles, but the flavors mingle together just great! Even Rick ate it.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with different kinds of cheeses i.e. Feta, goat, etc. and different kinds of pasta just for the fun of it. Enjoy! It’s even better the next day; all the flavors marinate together!
Another Delicious Wisconsin Garden Recipe: “Swanky Strawberry Salsa” submitted to us by Tania Nigh Voigt - WI
From Gourmet Meals in Crappy Little Kitchens by Jennifer Schaertl Makes 2 1/2 cups1 pound fresh strawberries, medium dice 1/2 red onion, medium dice 1 Serrano pepper, seeded and minced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1/2 teaspoon sugar Sea salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste
In a medium bowl, combine the strawberries, onion, Serrano pepper, parsley, lime juice and sugar. Toss gently to combine evenly, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Wrap tightly and refrigerate until chilled and ready to serve.
Another version of a fruit salsa can be made using two mangos and a peach instead of the strawberries.
PERENNIAL PLANTS THE ATTRACT BIRDS, BUTTERFLIES, & HUMMINGBIRDS
by Zannah Crowe, horticulturist
Among the factors you might consider when selecting perennials for your garden – beyond their beauty – is what “job” do you want your perennial plants to perform? How about attracting butterflies? Providing natural food for birds? Providing flowers for fresh bouquets or for drying? Scenting the evening air with fragrance? Deterring rabbits? Entertaining young visitors or creating conversation? The possibilities are endless…
Note: All can simply be harvested at their prime and hung upside down to dry in a cool dry area Yarrow (Achillea) Flowers (retain brilliant yellow color) Anise-Hyssop (Agastache) Flowers (fragrant) Ornamental Onion (Allium) Seedheads (can be colored once dried) Artemisia Foliage (fragrant) Astilbe Flowers (dry brown; can be colored once dried) Belamcanda (Blackberry Lily) Blackberry-like ornamental seeds & pods Globe Thistle (Echinops) Flowers (retain color) Sea Holly (Eryngium) Flowers (retain color) Ornamental Grasses Flowers & Seedheads (dry to tan) Lavender (Lavandula) Flowers & Foliage (fragrant) Beebalm (Monarda) Flowers (fragrant & retain color) Peony (Paeonia) Flowers (retain color) Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum) Flower Bracts (fragrant) Roses Flowers (retain color) Tansy (Tanacetum) Flowers (retain color)
Flowers for Cutting
Actually, a vast array of flowers work well in bouquets. Experiment! Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla) Beautiful “filler” in arrangements Asters (Asters) Fabulous color range, late season bouquets Clematis (Clematis) Float a single blossom in a decorative bowl Delphinium Striking color palette (true blues) Dianthus, longer stemmed varieties Long lasting as cut flower Daisies (Dendranthema, Leucanthemum) Classic simple bouquet or filler Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila) Airy “filler” Daylily (Hemerocallis) Each flower only lasts a day; pick a beautiful blossom in the morning and display it on a pretty dish until evening (needs no water) Coral Bells (Heuchera) Dainty accent Iris (Iris) Fleeting but gorgeous Gayfeather (Liatris) Outstanding vertical accent Peony (Paeonia) A classic for fresh bouquets Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata/maculata) Long lasting & fragrant, good color range Pincushion Flower Super long-lasting as cut flower
Fragrant Flowers
Plant near a patio, deck or walkway to best enjoy their fragrance. Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria) Tiny but intensely perfumed. Dianthus Clove-scented Scented Geraniums Annuals, but a “must” for patio containers Hosta Certain varieties have very fragrant flowers Lilies (Lilium) One plant can scent the entire garden! Peony (Paeonia) Many are sweet scented
Plants for Entertaining Children & Other Garden Guests Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla) Collects rainwater & dew like jewels on leaf edges Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema) Children are fascinated by the floral “house” American Ginger (Asarum) Putrid smelling flowers pollinated by flies (little kids love this!) Butterfly Weed/Milkweed (Asclepias) Monarch butterfly & caterpillar “magnets” False Indigo (Baptisia) Legend has it that native American children shook the seedheads of this plant to imitate their elders in ceremonies Bleeding Heart (Dicentra) Girls especially love these “heart plants” Gas Plant (Dictamnus) Gaseous emissions can supposed be lit with a match! Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda) Fruiting body resembles a cinnamon stick Queen-of-the-Prairie (Filipendula) Flowers look like cotton candy Blanket Flower (Gaillardia) Flowers look like native American blankets Bedstraw (Galium) Early settlers stuffed their mattresses with this plant Catchfly (Lychnis) Sticky stems were said to “catch flies” Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia) A Wisconsin cactus fascinates children Obedient Plant (Physostegia) Turn the blossom and it “obediently” stays where you place it Balloon Flower (Platycodon) Buds look like inflated balloons Soapwort (Saponaria) Early settlers used this plant to make soap Hens & Chicks (Sempervivum) Mother “hen” surrounded by baby “chicks” Lamb’s Ear (Stachys) Silky silver “lamb’s ear” foliage
Particularly Long Blooming (6+ weeks) Deadheading will almost always extend bloom period
Planting Tomatoes in Wisconsin by Lynn Susan Voigt copyright 2010 - RIVO Inc - All rights reserved!
When To Plant
Planting tomatoes in Wisconsin can be a tricky timing puzzle. In the olden days before global warming, you didn’t dare plant your tomatoes before Memorial Day for fear of frost killing them.
In the last five years or so, I have planted them safely in the middle of May. If you just can’t wait to get your fingers in the dirt after our long winter, go ahead and plant them, just have milk jugs or pots ready to cover them if the warning goes out.
Where To Get Plants
Some gardeners just love to get started with their gardens when the snow is still on the ground. They set up little greenhouses on their dining room table or window sill and get their grow-lights, growing trays, and seeds out and get started. It’s a lot of work, but it’s also a joy to see them come up and grow bigger by the day.
Many people don’t have the time, space, or patience it takes to grow their own so they buy their plants at local stores. Without naming names, I have tried several big box store tomatoes, and have always gone back to my garden center or green market when I want really healthy and heavy producing plants. You may pay a few cents more, but the outcome in tomato quality pays off.
How To Prepare Your Soil
Your soil is one of the most important aspects of growing outstanding tomatoes; it needs to be prepared – every year – before your plant anything!
Tomatoes take a lot of nutrients out of the soil, so each year you need to rotate what you plant where. If you planted tomatoes in one area last year, plant beans or peppers there this year. It will give your soil a chance to rest and also keeps the bugs guessing where your tomatoes went.
In the Fall it is very beneficial to put chopped leaves on your growing area. We often ask our neighbors for theirs so we are sure to have enough. In return, they get free produce in season. When Spring arrives you want to add more nutrients in the form of composted manure and peat moss which is available at any store that carries gardening supplies. Be as generous as your budget allows because this it the key to good soil and more tomatoes!
If you have a rototiller to mix it all up, that’s wonderful, if not, a shovel or pitchfork works just fine and you won’t have to exercise for that day. If your soil is too hard you may want to add some course sand to help loosen it up and make it easier for the plants to grow.
How To Plant
I am a big fan of Jerry Baker; he has written many books on gardening using common sense and household products to handle many gardening problems you may have. He has tonics and sprays for everything! You’ll feel like a chemist mixing Epson salts and dish soap with ammonia and tobacco juice, but you may also be amazed at the results you get. You can go online and find many helpful hints from Jerry. This year I am using Jerry Baker’s tomato planting mix to see how well it works in my garden. I have used some of these ingredients before, but not all.
Dig your hole in the dirt about twice the size of the pot the tomato is in, so you can fill it with newly loosened soil making it easy for the roots to take hold. If you’re using a fertilizer or Jerry’s mix, put it in the bottom of the hole, along with a teaspoon of sugar before you add the plant. Yes, it does seem to make them sweeter.
Hold the pot sideways and knock it on the ground if it’s big enough, or slightly squeeze the plastic pot to make it easier to get it out. With one hand over the opening supporting your plant, tip the pot upside down and jiggle it out.
Carefully place the plant into the hole. Tomatoes like to be buried deeply as they will sprout new roots long their stems where soil comes into contact. This makes your plant stronger and less likely to be blown over in the wind.
Gently pat around your plant and create a crater of soil around the plant to form a catch basin for water when it rains or you sprinkle it. You don’t want to pile the soil around your plant so it looks like a lone tree on top of a hill; all the water will run off and leave before it can soak into the soil.
Give your tomato a drink right away to settle the soil around the roots, then water it daily for a week or so depending on your weather and location. If it starts looking wilty and thirsty, give it a drink; you want juicy tomatoes, right?
Care Of Your Plants
Water your babies regularly and watch for insects that seem to be bothering them. If you have problems with bugs, check out Jerry Baker again or ask your garden center what they recommend.
Tomato plants like to grow new stems right above each leaf. Some people choose to nip those new branches out and let only the main stems grow and produce. It’s a personal choice. Try it on a few and see if you notice a difference in tomato size and production.
I like to cut off some of the huge leaves that grow into each other so that more air can pass through the plant, and make it less likely that pests will want to stop by and live there, and mildew doesn’t get started in the shady areas. Again, try it and see if it works for your garden. Pick up whatever you chop off, and throw it away or put it in a compost pile, don’t just leave them on the ground. That would be an open invitation for disease and bugs to come and stay.
I also like to cage my plants to keep them off the ground. This makes a cleaner area around each plant, and it is also easier to see and pick your fruit before it gets too ripe. I use the sturdy metal cages and tie the branches up with natural twine. The twine does not get hot and burn your plants like twisty ties can, and it also decomposes by itself.
End of Season Clean Up
When the season is over, clean up is essential! You want to pull out and dispose of or compost the plants and any tomatoes that have fallen on the ground. New plants will pop up next summer from the seeds on the ground. Those plants may look healthy, but usually they are faulty hybrids that will not produce the lovely fruit from the year before.
Your whole purpose for cleaning up is to create next year’s bed that will be free of pests, weeds, and disease. When you have finished cleaning you should see a bed that is ready to grow next spring with no hint of what grew there last summer. It will make you eager to get started next spring because there will be no mess to clean up before you can have the fun of planting again.
Gardening should be fun. It’s good to be outdoors; it’s calming, it’s rewarding, and it’s financially worth the wholesome produce you grow. You will know exactly what you put into the soil and not have to worry about the poisonous additives you often get from store bought food. You will know that the food you pick is as fresh as it can possible be because you picked it the minute before you ate it and thus got ALL the nutrients immediately.
Gardening is a great family activity that will be remembered by everyone and perhaps passed down from generation to generation. That’s what happened in our family. Our children and our nieces and nephews all find joy in gardening, and that is because their grandpa was a proud gardener who showed off his garden whenever someone came to visit. Have fun – start a garden!
Thank you for your great questions and supportive comments. Many visitors wanted to know more about our Wisconsin Garden adventure so we thought we'd post this little bio written about us.
Richard & Lynn Voigt - RIVO I.M. Marketing Specialist since 1997
Richard and Lynn love creative adventure and are happiest when participating in any number of unique entrepreneurial activities.
Hundreds credit them for being a catalyst for focusing on goals that achieve dramatic growth in their businesses.
Their unique approach to business and life in particular has been responsible for the birth of multiple projects and companies that have greatly impacted multiple niches in the exploding world of Internet Marketing.
With a unique ability to consistently develop self-sufficient business systems, they currently run over 100 online website businesses and mentor aspiring Internet Marketers.
Several of their ventures are now #1 on Google and other major search engines leading the way as Internet Marketing Educational Specialists in the world today.
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